This is Not a Restaurant Guide
Italy’s “Must Try” Foods by Region
We were told that Italy still focuses on using local, seasonal ingredients. But even that doesn’t explain why everything we ate tasted like we had never had it before. It’s a tomato, but it’s somehow better than the best tomato we’ve ever had. The cantaloupe is impossibly sweet. The meats are richer, the cheeses, oh don’t get me going on the cheeses. Where to eat? My tip is to trust the locals, ask your hotel host, they know the spots. Whenever we listened, the food was the best. But don’t be afraid to just dive in if it looks good. That strategy worked as well. Don’t overthink it, it’s all delicious. Just avoid the obvious tourist trap restaurants with photos of the food outside and barkers trying to get you to come in. I mean, it’s probably still delicious but perhaps even more so at a less touristy spot down the street.
Every region is known for certain foods. I’m going to show you the foods you must try, the ones you seek out, in each area. Don’t think of this as a restaurant guide but more of a cheat sheet so you don’t miss out on a regional specialty.
As for tips, here’s a good one. Remember, in Italy there is no expectation that you leave a tip. What?? That’s right, you don’t have to feel guilty about not tipping. But if the service was good, round up for small items like coffees or street foods and add a few bucks, no more than 10%, if dining in a restaurant.
When in Rome, Eat This
Rome’s Most Famous Regional Dishes
#1 MUST TRY FOOD IN ROME - CACIO E PEPE: I’m seeing this show up on US menus but it is not even close to what you get in Rome. A simple dish of pasta, cheese, and pepper, it tastes like the best Mac N Cheese you have ever had. Do not leave Rome without eating this at least once.
RIGATONI CARBONARA: No, you’ve never had this until you’ve had it in Rome. It’s not like the gloppy cream sauce you’ve had at Olive Garden.
PORCHETTA: Crispy skin on the outside, succulent pork on the inside, served in deli’s though we went to ER Porchetto, a tiny shop by the Termini train station that’s been making it since 1890. It’s so tiny we walked past it a dozen times before seeing the door.
SUPPLI: A street food, suppli is a fried rice ball filled with molten cheese and other ingredients.
PIZZA AL TAGLIO: Make it a goal to try the pizzas in every region you visit as they are all different. Pizza in Rome is sold in squares by weight, by the slice.
TRAPIZZINO: A “new” street food that was invented in Rome in 2009, it’s a triangular pocket pizza filled with just about anything delicious.
ARTICHOKES: Jewish crispy deep fried artichokes, salty, crunchy, delightful.
Every place we ate in Rome was seriously delicious but we especially like Roscioli, an urban feeling vibe with top ingredients and upscale presentation. Make reservations early - we got the last two seats at the bar.
Gelato is everywhere and I suggest you get as much gelato as you can, wherever you can. There is huge debate on who makes the best - go ahead and debate, we’re eating more. We loved Giolitti, a fancy elegant sort of place that’s been serving gelato near the Pantheon since 1890.
The Food Finds of Florence
What to Eat in Florence and Tuscany
#1 MUST TRY FOOD IN FLORENCE - BISTECCA ALLA FIORENTINA: This is a steak. A really big steak, traditionally cooked fast and rare over fire. It’s expensive, figure €90 for two, but it’s the number one thing you must eat in Florence.
SCHIACCIATA: You’re going to see people all over Florence carrying these super sized square sandwiches made of a type of thin focaccia bread with thinly sliced meat hanging out of the side. Cheap and delicious street food, don’t miss.
TRUFFLES: If you love truffles, you will be in heaven. If you have never had real truffles (truffle oil doesn’t count) because of the cost, then you are really going to love Florence and Siena where truffles seemingly grow in the ground like magic.
LAMPREDOTTO: OK, not for everyone but can you really leave Florence without trying their famous street food sandwich made from tripe? Get way out of your comfort zone, it’s only a sandwich and if you hate it there’s always a gelato shop nearby.
SEARCHING FOR THE BEST STEAK IN FLORENCE: I didn’t just want a steak, I wanted Florence’s best steak. My research came up with Buca Lapi for a fancier restaurant, Trattoria Mario for a diner dive sort of place. I overthought it and didn’t go to either of those and in the end our steak was good, not life changing great, and I regretted not going to my first picks. If I could do it again I would go to both Buca Lapi and Trattoria Mario to compare the two - yes, I love steak that much. Whatever you do, do not leave Florence without getting the Bistecca alla Fiorentina.
Seafood and Pesto at Coastal Cinque Terre
See Food, Eat Food
#1 MUST TRY FOOD IN CINQUE TERRE - ANCHOVIES: Don’t groan, these are not the anchovies you’ve been eating in the US. Anchovies in Cinque Terre are fresh, not the least bit fishy, served up with a bit of lemon or lightly friend and eaten whole. If your experience with anchovies are the super salty canned variety then put that aside and get ready for a delightful surprise.
ANTIPASTI AI FRUTTI DI MARE: Think of this as a seafood sampler, served in every restaurant and featuring the freshest catch of the day.
CONES OF SEAFOOD: You’ll find these street food stands along the beach in Montorosso or in shops, particularly in Riomaggiorre. Filled with calamari, shrimp, and anchovies, expect people to stop to ask you where you got it. Find the places cooking it fresh, not kept warm under heat lamps.
PESTO: The area is the birthplace of pesto so you know it’s going to be good. Very good.
FOCACCIA: Yes, another local food that was invented in Cinque Terre, this simple flatbread can be eaten plain or topped with creative ingredients.
So many good places - il Gabbiano in Monterosso served the best Accuighe Al Limon, anchovies with lemon, a casual sidewalk cafe overlooking the beach. For the giant cones of seafood we loved Mamma Mia Take Away on Riomagiorre, fried to order, the anchovies were as crispy outside, moist inside. For a sit down dinner we stumbled upon Da Eraldo with their incredible seafood appetizer that left us stuffed before our pasta arrived - I mean it, this place needs to be on your “must dine at” list.
We also had possibly the best pizza of our trip at Ristorante Lapo’S - we might have been starving but we cannot stop talking about this thin crust pizza with a slightly wet center and ultra fresh ingredients. For focaccia don’t miss iL Fornaio di Monterosso - grab some to go for the train ride on your last day. We also dined at fancy Michelin star Ristorante Miky, very good but perhaps not better than some of our other dining experiences.
A Taste of Venice
The Best Things to Eat in Venice
#1 MUST TRY FOOD IN VENICE - CICCHETTI: Venice’s version of happy hour, “tapa” sized bites served in small, local restaurants (though I have been told they do not like it when you call it tapas). You point at what you want, they load up the plate, you drink some wine or beer, then head off to the next one. Super fun way to try lots of different foods and an essential dining experience when in Venice.
GRAN PIATTO DI AFFETTATI AT AL PROSECCO: The most amazing platter of cheeses and meats, all from local providers, at a local neighborhood restaurant far away from the tourists. Sure, you can get a similar platter at any number of other restaurants but I doubt you will find better.
SEAFOOD, ANY SEAFOOD: Because Venice is surrounded by water you’ll find plenty of fresh seafood. But choose carefully as Venice is also known for many overpriced tourist trap spots. Ask your hotel host - they know where to go and where to avoid.
BACCALA MANTECATO: Dried and creamed fish for dipping or topped on a cicchetti, it’s a classic Venice food.
HOW TO AVOIDING TOURIST TRAP DINING IN VENICE: Perhaps we were feeling a bit overconfident. After all, we had amazing food during our entire trip and expected the same in Venice. We found a wonderfully picturesque restaurant on the canal with dozens of open tables. Upon sitting we realized that no one was Italian. Not at the tables. Not behind the cash register. Not in the kitchen. It was our worst meal in Italy, no better than an Olive Garden. If we had done our homework we would have realized that a lot of restaurants in Venice are no longer owned or run by locals. Just look at the staff - if they are not Italians, you’re on your own. Find the local places, the ones away from the tourist spots, and you’ll be on the right track to finding great food in Venice.
